Natural UV Sunscreen: Herbal Shield for Sun Protection & Anti-Photoaging

Skin gives protection from the external injuries like UV radiation of the sun. If our body is exposed to UV rays for a very longtime then, it can cause photoaging. UV radiations are mainly classified as UVA, UVB and UVC radiations based on the wavelength of these radiations. In the parts of stratosphere, where ozone concentration is at its highest concentration is called as Ozone layer. This layer plays a crucial role in providing a shield against the harmful Ultraviolet radiations of the sun.

What are the visible signs of Photoaging?

Photoaging also known as Dermatoheliosis; is a premature aging of the skin which is induced by chronic exposure of UVA and UVB radiations. UVB radiations penetrates through the epidermal layer of the skin which causes DNA mutations. This epidermal layer contains melanocytes which produces more melanin pigment after UVB radiations. This causes more appearance of freckles and hyperpigmentation, which is again a sign of photoaging. Likewise, UVA are also harmful as they can penetrate deeper into the skin compared to UVB radiations this can cause damage to the dermal layer and epidermal layer. The dermal layer contains collagen fibers, elastin fibers with extrafibrillar matrix this provides skin its structure. But, due to the chronic UVA exposure the size of the dermal layer gets reduced this causes shrinking or loosening skin layers. Photoaging caused due to UV radiation gives leathery appearance, formation of wrinkles and reduced skin elasticity.

 Ingredients:

Aloe vera – Ghrita Kumari (Aloe barbadensis)

It is of Sheeta virya (cool potency) with guru (heavy in nature), snigdha (soft and smooth in texture) and pichhila guna (sticky in consistency) which makes it beneficial for the summer heat as it gets stick to the skin and remains there for long.

It can take care of many skin ailments as it having many properties like

1. Shothahara (reduces swelling, inflammation)
2. Vedanasthapana (pain reduction)
3. Vrana ropana (wound healing properties)
4. Twak doshahara (cures skin ailments)
5. Kushthaghna (treats many skin disorders)
6. Rasayana (nourishes the body and improves longevity and rejuvenation)

According to one research article, the bradykinase enzyme present in aloe vera gel helps to reduce the sunburns and stimulates the immune system.

Cucumber – (Cucumis sativa)

As we know, it is very commonly found in summers not only for external purposes but, also for various refreshing summer recipes.

It is given so much importance as it is of:

1. Sheeta virya (cold potency)
2. Madhura vipaka (the final effect after its digestion is sweet and nourishing)
3. Madhur rasa (sweet in taste – although you may not consider it as sweet but, in Ayurveda food substances like wheat, rice is considered as sweet and having nourishing effect on the body)
4. Daha prashamana (reduces burning sensation of anywhere like externally on skin and internally while passing urine and stool).
5. Trishna shamak (as it takes care of excessive thirst which could be either physiological and pathological in origin)
6. pitta shamak (pacifies vitiated Pitta doshas in our body).

Avocado – (Persea americana)

Its oil is having nourishing waxes, proteins, minerals and is rich in vitamin A, D and E. It is good for dry, damaged and chapped skin with wound healing properties. In an experimental study on rats, it was found that the excised wound got completely healed on an average on the day 14^th in the rats after receiving it either orally or topically.

Jojoba – (Simmondsia chinensis)

According to one research article, it is good in treating dry skin conditions, pain and edema caused by sunburns or any other thermal burns. Its main ingredient myristic acid is effective in sun protection.

Wild carrot – (Daucus carota)

Its seed oil can be good option for natural sunscreen with anti-aging properties. The anti-oxidant properties of it can prevent damage from UV radiation and adds hydration to the skin.

Red raspberry- (Rubus idaeus)

Red raspberry has good antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. Its seed oil contains carotenoids which is packed with Vitamin A and E. Vitamin A is having anti-oxidants which gives it anti-aging properties. Vitamin E is also having good anti-oxidant properties which prevents oxidative damage of the cells and maintains the collagen fibers. According to Essential of Materia Medica (Chinese medicine book), raspberry can moisten the skin, reduce the redness and swelling. According to one study, Raspberry ethanolic extract could prevent the injuries caused by UVB radiations which were caused by programmed cell death (like apoptosis) of keratinocytes.

Kewda – (Pandanus odoratissimus)

It is Varnya (improves skin complexion), vednasthapana (relieves pain), daurgandhyahara (prevents foul odor of the body), vrana ropana (wound healing), sweda janana (produces sweat), kushthaghna (treats skin ailments). Kewda Oil is having vrana ropana (wound healing) properties. Priyavrat Sharma has classified this drug under Snehopaga varga (helpful in oleation treatment). It is beneficial in skin disorders and it is of Ushna virya which may be responsible for sweda janana (sweat production) and twachya (improves complexion or good for skin) property.

Tea tree oil – (Melaleuca alternifolia)

It can cure photoaged skin conditions and slows down aging of skin because of the anti-oxidant properties due to its free radical scavenging activity. It gives synergistic sun protection factor effect along with rosemary essential oil.

Kesar – (Crocus sativus)

It is Varnya (improves skin complexion), shothahara (reduces swelling), sweda janana (increases sweating), daurgandhyahara (removes bad odor or foul smell), varnyavikara (improves skin complexion related issues or diseases).

Why any kind of chemical or physical sunscreen agents were not used in this formulation?

As physical sunscreen agents like Zinc oxide, Titanium oxides can cause skin irritations, breakouts and have a tendency of forming a white caste on the skin surface.

Chemical sunscreen agents work by absorbing UV rays and converting it into the heat energy which causes burning sensation on the skin. This same goes with the hybrid category too.

So, eliminating the limitation of these sunscreen we have developed a formulation which can provide protection against UV rays.

References:

Nayak BS, Raju SS, Chalapathi Rao AV. Wound healing activity of Persea americana (avocado) fruit: a preclinical study on rats. J Wound Care. 2008 Mar;17(3):123-6. doi: 10.12968/jowc.2008.17.3.28670. PMID: 18376654.

Karanveer Gautam, Vinay Pandit, M. S. Ashawat. Herbs used in Skin Protection from Ultravoilet Sun Radiation. Research J. Topical and Cosmetic Sci. 2020; 11(2):95-97. doi: 10.5958/2321-5844.2020.00017.5

Wei Gao, Yu-shuai Wang, Eunson Hwang, Pei Lin, Jahyun Bae, Seul A. Seo, Zhengfei Yan, Tae-Hoo Yi, Rubus idaeus L. (red raspberry) blocks UVB-induced MMP production and promotes type I procollagen synthesis via inhibition of MAPK/AP-1, NF-κβ and stimulation of TGF-β/Smad, Nrf2 in normal human dermal fibroblasts, Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology, Volume 185, 2018, Pages 241-253, ISSN 1011-1344.

Ispiryan A, Viškelis J, Viškelis P. Red Raspberry (Rubus idaeus L.) Seed Oil: A Review. Plants (Basel). 2021 May 9;10(5):944. doi: 10.3390/plants10050944. PMID: 34065144; PMCID: PMC8151122.

Acharya Priyavrat Sharma, Dravyaguna Vigyan, Published by Chaukhambha Bharati Academy Reprint 2015.

Hugo Infante V, Maria Maia Campos P, Darvin M, Lohan S, Schleusener J, Schanzer S, Lademann J, Meinke M. Cosmetic Formulations with Melaleuca alternifolia Essential Oil for the Improvement of Photoaged Skin: A Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Study. Photochem Photobiol. 2023 Jan;99(1):176-183. doi: 10.1111/php.13660. Epub 2022 Jul 25. PMID: 35668682.

Malik P, Upadhyay P. GC-MS Chemical profile, Antioxidant Activity, and Sun Protection Factor of Essential Oil of Tea Tree (Melaleuca alternifolia) and Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis L.) Orient J Chem 2022;38(5).

Golmohammadzadeh S, Jaafari MR, Hosseinzadeh H. Does saffron have antisolar and moisturizing effects? Iran J Pharm Res. 2010 Spring;9(2):133-40. PMID: 24363719; PMCID: PMC3862060.